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When curating a list of London’s finest eateries, one might expect familiar Michelin-starred names. However, situated near the top among these food heavyweights is a modest salonu found in a distant part of northern London.

An Surprise Accolade

The compact Turkish eatery, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the fourth best restaurant in the city by a prominent food magazine. This accolade has left the family totally surprised.

“I am completely astonished,” says a proprietor, alluding to his family’s relentless work that culminated in their modest shop achieving such a high position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Modesty

The compact space, which was a simple cafe before its conversion into a buzzing food hotspot, has kept much of its former character. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking show, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate spot,” says the owner.

The Namesake Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all about the food, and this eatery certainly delivers. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a moist, juicy quality.

The meat is then tossed into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in slowly. Once the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to soak in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is rolled securely inside.

It is usually consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a mighty punch of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A leading food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is doused in less syrup than is typical, imparting it a richer, more aromatic and not overly sweet profile.

Rising Above the Stars

Interestingly, this modest spot has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the peak of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place stuffed for under £25, comparable meals at high-end establishments can start at many times that amount.

A Creed of Heart

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an pricey city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I do not subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is friendliness, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The view is echoed by the list’s curator, who stated that if he were in a position of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London train at this spot as a final lesson, to teach them the dangers of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Path of Perseverance

In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food did not train at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel very pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to become successful, but this one first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum would be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a personal life but her friends would support her to support her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these duties forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

An Achievement for the Culture

This restaurant’s success is set to resonate outside its own premises. “I think numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the greater importance of this gastronomic achievement.